Saturday 18 March 2017

Fun with RFID

Fun with the ID-12LA

So looking at the sensor tech out there that people have implemented, I'm really not a big fan of all the wires that people are using to detect where the train is.  RFID probably isn't the best solution but I think it'll suit my needs a little better . . . if I can get it working.

So the module I got was the small ID-12LA from Sparkfun.  I Initially bought the starter kit with the USB serial reader and a few cards, but save yourself some cash and just get the reader.

You should also get the RFID Reader Breakout Board and also some standard pin headers ( 0.1" ) and some xbee pin ( 2mm ) headers as well.

Ok next step . . . ignore the pinout example on Sparkfun's website . . . it is incomplete, to the point of being frustratingly useless.

 I eventually found this on Instructables and even added my own two cents worth in a comment for clarity and emphasis on following Part 2 of the how to properly.

I was getting the FFFFFFF issue and other intermittent read issues.
The only thing that fixed it was to follow step 2 correctly with the wiring.
Ensure that you are using the +5V and NOT +3.3V
Tie pin 1(GND) and 7(FORMAT) together and connect to Ground
Tie pin 2(RES) and 11(+5V) together and connect to +5V
Pin 9 (D0) goes to RX on the Arduino
Pin 10 (LED) should go to an appropriate resistor, LED then Ground.

However a picture is worth a thousand words so here is my break out board with wiring.  The beauty of this wiring is that you only need to use one connector and three wires.



The wire I got was single core with insulation, so it was easy to solder and didn't cause a short.

I soldered all of the headers on first.

Once complete I soldered ( re-flowed ) the BLACK wire from GND to FORM.

There is a spare BLACK wire that goes from GND to nowhere, you don't need that one, it's just in case I wanted to solder a led and resistor to the READ pin for read notifications, but I don't want to now as it was only for debugging.  Also when the card/button is read there is a blue led on the MM v2 that will light up.

I then soldered ( re-flowed ) the RED wire from RES to VCC.

I crimped up the 6 Pin connector with three wires for VCC ( +3.3V ) , D0 ( Digital Sense Pin ) and FORM ( Ground ).


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